By Maung Maung Aye
IT WAS a balmy morning. The bright rays of the sun, through the thick foliage of trees, were beaming down on the cars we would board. I stood near the Mogok Refectory in the precincts of State Pariyatti Sasana University, looking at the spire of the glittering Kaba Aye Pagoda that stood majestically. I saw the leaves of the Bodhi tree and toddy palms on the platform swaying due to the wind. Soon, we were ready to leave the Mogok Refectory.
When our minibus set out, it was around 8 am. Our group was comprised of 12 people: 8 monks from the State Pariyatti University (Yangon) and 4 lay persons, including myself and my elder brother. Our destination was Thongwa, a small town near Yangon, and on our arrival there, we would attend the 80th birthday celebration of Rector Sayadaw Dr Bhaddanta Kumara. Moreover, we would honour the Sayadaw who had recently received the esteemed religious title ‘’Abhidhaja Maharatthaguru “conferred upon him by the State.
Our car departed from Kaba Aye Pagoda Road towards Gandama Road. Soon, we reached the junction at which Okkalapa Golf Resort is situated. After passing through Inno City Buildings, our car ran quickly along Waizayanta Road without any halt until we reached the newly constructed Thanlyin Bridge. At 8:45 am, we crossed the toll gate of the bridge. I gazed at the turbulent Yangon River flowing below. I saw some seagulls floating with the current, a fleet of cargo ships at anchor in the middle of the river and one or two motorboats moving fast. I looked towards a hill where the Lwan Ceti is situated on the other bank. Instead of the Ceti, I saw just a small hill clad in the green rainforests and some buildings in the neighbourhood. The Ceti was hidden amongst the groves of leafy trees.
Having passed through Aung Chantha Junction, we turned right and proceeded along Kyaikkhauk Pagoda Road. We saw the colonial buildings, ancient buildings, etc. It suggests that it was an ancient town. Legend has it that Thanlyin was so named after Maung Thanlyin, who founded it, while it derived from ‘’Mya Thanlyin”, a princess who ruled over it. But their times could not be traced back exactly. It was a garrison town of the Portuguese during the Nyaung Yan period. It developed a district-level town stationed by an assistant commissioner during the colonial period. Soon, we got to Thanlyin Myoma Market. The marketplace was in commotion. It was buzzy with many buyers, sellers, etc. I saw some motor-trishaw drivers under a big, branchy tree. Shops and mini-stores were tucked in the buildings on both sides of Myo Ma Market. At 9 am, we reached the foot of Uttaringa Hill, at the top of which, the historic Kyaikkhauk Pagoda stood majestically. Our car turned left onto a road leading east. Soon, we saw Yangon Eastern University on a wide estate sheltered by the green leafy trees. It is learnt that it was built in 1999. It offered young people in the neighbourhood access to higher education. At 9:04, we arrived in front of the eastern archway gate. Nevertheless, we proceeded nonstop. Soon, we were outside the town and continued along the No 6 Road, which is the main road towards Thongwa.
The traffic became lighter. Some cars overtook ours in a tearing rush. The further we moved, the more countrified the scenes became. We often saw wide fields, small hamlets, and dense forests. Some monasteries, sprawling plantations and vast pea fields were found on the road-sides until we arrived at Thaik Tu Kan Model Village. We proceeded along the No 6 Road. There were petrol stations, Kokku trees and a home for the aged on the roadside. Rice granaries and pea-storage warehouses stood prominently, reflecting the area’s agricultural livelihood.
We then passed the Mahasi Meditation Centre, a testament to the villagers’ deep religious devotion. Nearby, a middle school stood as a symbol of education in the community. Soon, we entered downtown Thongwa, a historic town established during King Thayawady’s reign. Its name derives from its location at the confluence of the Mawwam Creek, the Thenegi Creek and the Takaw Creek. During the colonial period, Thongwa was a district-level town. It was administered by the assistant commissioner. People were generous and pious. Thus, they made many donations. Religious buildings, monasteries and pagodas, etc., were, therefore, found in abundance. It was a thriving town, bolstered by fisheries and agriculture.
Some colonial-era wooden buildings are still extant. As soon as we crossed a bridge that spanned a small creek, we arrived at the bustling municipal market in the downtown. Turning left, we finally reached our destination, Sayadaw U Kumara’s monastery ‘’Thel Inngu Yeiktha Sasana Aung Beikman’’ at 9:36 am.
When we arrived there, we took photographs and rested in the Sayadaw’s room. Some of his lay devotees treated us to tea-leaf salad and snacks. Soon, they led us to a refectory and served lunch. The courses of meals were many and delicious. Guests were house-full. While lunching, some devotional songs were heard, coming from a wide hall. After lunch, while passing through this hall, I noticed heaps of four requisites in it. It is known that by drawing lots, the monks would be offered these requisites soon. I saw some guests watching the vocalists on the stage singing classical songs, devotional songs, etc., in honour of Sayadaw’s obtaining the recent title and 80th birthday.
When we arrived again at the Sayadaw’s room, we met him readily. We paid respect to him. We had a chat with him. He presented me and other teachers from State Pariyatti University, some of his authored books, and during our conversation, some local devotees arrived to present offerings. As far as I know, Sayadaw is currently serving as Rector of the State Pariyatti Sasana University (Yangon) and as Presiding Monk of the Maha Sima Pariyatti Monastery and the Everest Dhamma Yeik Nyein Monastery. On January 1, 2025, the government honoured him with the religious title ‘Abhidhaja Maharatthaguru’. He, as a distinguished scholar, earned his PhD in Buddhist Studies from Maha Chulalongkorn Rajavidyalaya University in 2023. His other titles included Aggamahapandita, Mahaganthavacaka Pandita, Aggamaha Saddhammajotikadhaja, and Honorary Dhamma Paragu (Litt), along with the Thiri Pyanchi Performance Award. He was also a prolific writer and had authored numerous works on Buddhist scriptures.
On our way back, we took a different route, passing the Kularwe Bridge. We enjoyed the new scenes again. We saw gardens, resorts, and sprawling fields stretching on either side of the road. Due to the beautiful scenery, we felt refreshed and peaceful. We obtained new regional knowledge, for I had never been to Thongwa before. Moreover, we obtained merits because we had to worship Sayadaw and monks. Thus, it was a rewarding and profitable trip for us.