25 November

ILEFT my  home  town  more  than  40  years  ago.  The last time I went there was  more  than  11  years  ago. My home town Kyaiklat was in  Ayeyawady  Region  Pyapon  District. Kyaiklat also had a well known Pali name Dhamma Pala. Dhamma  means  “teachings  of  Buddha” and Pala means “main-taining or preserving.”

During  the  colonial  era,  Ledi  Sayadaw  U  Nyanadaja  wrote  his  famous  poetic  prose  Nwa-myitta-sa  (Affection  to  cow)  encouraging  Buddhists  not  to  kill  cattle  and  eat  beef  and  later  he  led  a  successful  beef  boycotts.  Ledi  Sayadaw  came  to  Kyaiklat  on  Myan-mar  Era  (ME)  1264  (1902)  and  preached about non-killing and consumption of beef. The entire town folks follow the Sayadaw’s sermon according to the town’s other  name  of  Dhamma  Pala  resulting in municipal cancelling cattle slaughterhouse license in Kyaiklat because there was absolutely no consumption of beef.

Kyaiklat was also made famous by its town folks consist-ing of Maha Gita (Great Classic Music) U Pyone Cho, movie di-rector U Thukha, writer Dagon Taya and musician Sein Bo Tint.

Collapsing  pagoda  or  Kyaiklat

According to Ministry of Home Affair’s records and My-anmar  encyclopedia,  Kyaiklat  starts  as  a  village  established  in 1840 by ethnic Mons who mi-grated  from  Bago  Region  and  other  parts  of  Ayeyawady  Re-gion.  There  was  a  9  yard  high  pagoda  on  the  river  bank  west  of the village. Due to river bank erosion  the  pagoda  collapsed  into the river. In Mon language, Kyaik  Loid  means  collapsing  pagoda and as time goes by the word became Kyaiklat and that was where the name of the town came from.

All  had  accepted  the  fact  that  the  name  Kyaiklat  came  from  the  word  literally  meaning collapsing pagoda but there were several versions on which pagoda that collapsed.

The first was between No. 6 road and No. 7 road on Bogyoke Street in the present day Kyaiklat Town. The second was in Ward 5, formerly known  as  Pho  Taw  Gon.  Both  had pagoda that had collapsed.Finally on the eastern most part of Kyaiklat, at a river con-fluence  that  was  locally  called  “Chun Htate” also had a pago-da that had collapsed. This was where boats to Maubin, Dedaye, Twantay, Pyapon, Bogale, Wakema  and  Mawlamyinegun  an-chored to wait for tide and wind.

Whichever pagoda was the source of the town’s name, the name Kyaiklat inarguably came from  the  word  “collapsing  pa-goda.”

Kyaiklat  region  in  the  history

In 1861, the village became a town and town commissioner Mr Maxwell  and  secretary  U  Sein  Htoo plotted the town plot. It was a small town that was only 1.22 mile wide situated on Pantaput Creek  in  the  delta  area  of  Ay-eyawady River. Kyaiklat Town-ship  covers  an  area  of  274.312  sq.  mile  and  had  six  wards,  87  village tracts with 421 villages. It was bordered by Dedaye Township  in  the  east,  Wakema  and  Mawlamyinegun  townships  in  the  west,  Pyapon  Township  in  the south and Maubin Township in the north.

In  1875  Kyaiklat  Township  and  Maubin  Township  were  included  in  Thongwa  District.  When  Pyapon  District  was  formed  in  1903,  Kyaiklat  came  under  it.  Kyaiklat  town  com-mittee was formed in 1900 and municipal  board  was  formed.  On 27 May 1905, the municipal authorities designated Kyaiklat as a town officially.

Kyaiklat  Township  despite  being  surrounded  and  criss-crossed with creeks and rivers was 16.53 ft. above sea level and was  rarely  flooded  or  inundated.  However,  heavy  winds  and  storms  in  1972,  1976,  2006  and  2008 causes numbers of deaths to people and livestock as well as causing some material damages.

The  region  receives  more  than  100  inches  of  rain  annually,  paddy  was  the  main  agri-culture  product  while  coconut,  betel nut, banana and mangoes were  also  produced.  As  it  was  a  top  rice  producing  township,  the township had 43 major rice mills as well as 202 small scale rice hullers or rice huskers. Rice produced  was  sent  to  Yangon  and central Myanmar.

Kyaiklat Township annually produces more than 20 million Tins  (1  Tin  =  40.9148  liter)  of  paddy, both monsoon and sum-mer, while 79 fish ponds also produced more than 1 million Viss (1 Viss = 1.63293 kg) of fishes.

Kyaiklat  Town  was  a  town  stretched in an east-west direction with four main roads laid in the east-west direction. The four were Strand Road (now Bogyoke Road), U Sandar Road, U Pyone Cho  Road  and  Maxwell  Road.  U  Sandar  was  a  well  known  traditional  medicine  doctor.  U  Pyone  Cho  was  Maha  Gita  U  Pyone  Cho.  Maxwell  was  the  town commissioner that plotted the town plot.

According  to  figures  released  in  March  2017,  Kyaiklat  Township  had  a  population  of  192,392 with the majority being Bama and Kayin.

Prior to 1997, Kyaiklat Town-ship residences used waterways for  transport.  Travel  was  by  boats  and  ships.  By  waterway,  Yangon  was  48  miles,  Maubin  was 16 miles and Mawlamyine-gun was 45 miles away. In 1997 Yangon-Maubin-Kyaiklat-Bogale road  was  built  and  ever  since,  waterways  were  used  only  for transporting goods while people mostly travelled by road.

The township had one tech-nical  science  school,  nine  high  schools, 29 middle schools and 179  primary  schools.  Kyaiklat  Town had a 50-bed hospital while the  township  had  one  station  hospital  and  41  rural  health  clinics.

Of the total of 523 pagodas in the township, Tilawka Marazein, Sandamuni and Standing Bud-dha  Image  in  Kyaiklat  Town  were  the  most  famous.  Sanda-muni Buddha image was sculpt-ed on 1st Waxing of Nattaw ME 1281 (22 November 1919). Donor U Tun and Daw Su from Shwe Tha Chaung Village on the op-posite bank of the river brought over sculptors from Mandalay to sculpt  the  Buddha  image.  The  sculpting of the Buddha image took about a year. After the donors  passed  away,  the  Buddha  image  was  renovated  three  times  with  the  last  renovation  conducted on 9 September 1997.

The 27 ft high Standing Bud-dha  Image  on  the  other  hand  was sculpted from a single teak log  with  a  diameter  of  14  ft  3  inches. The teak log was found drifting  in  a  creek  in  1885  and  two donors, U Kan Htoo and U Kya Phu fetched wood sculptor U Lun and his team from Man-dalay  to  sculpt  it  into  a  stand-ing Buddha image. The process was said to have took about four years. The Standing Buddha Image was placed in Shan Kyaung monastery compound.

In addition to the pagodas, Kyaiklat also had a unique drink-ing water pond. The pond situat-ed to the south of Kyaiklat was 2,000  ft.  long  and  750  ft.  wide.  The  pond  was  dug  during  the  colonial period by the town peo-ple and there were no record of the exact year on which it was dug. The entire town folks came out to help again in renovating the pond’s embankment in 1971 and the pond was still in use as a drinking water pond.

Kyaiklat  Town  given  the  name Dhamma Pala by Seventh head of Shwekyin Religious Or-der (Sect) was a peaceful town in  Ayeyawady  Region.  It  now  had become a place of visit for Yangonites who made a day re-turn visit by car. Kyaiklat town folks  who  were  working  or  mi-grated  to  other  towns  usually  came back to their home town on  National  Victory  Day.  This  was a new tradition that started several years back probably due to  the  roads  that  made  travel  faster and more convenient.

There  were  significant  changes and development in the roads and buildings of my home town  when  I  went  back  there  after  not  returning  for  more  than 11 years. But the tradition and  habit  of  offering  morning  meals  by  ward  morning  meal  donor  groups  during  the  rain  retreat  months  remained  un-changed.  Town  folks  were  still  using  the  water  from  the  big  drinking water pond. Religious examinations traditionally held in Pyapon District’s four towns of Pyapon, Kyaiklat, Bogale and Dedaye were still held regularly. The  tradition  of  venerating  U  Shin  Gyi  or  Lord  of  the  Sea  or  Conqueror of the Seas, was held in three parts in Kyaiklat start-ing from the month of Tabodwe.

Kyaiklat  town  established  as a Mon village in 1840 was now 179 years old.

While  visiting  my  peace-ful home town, I made a silent prayer for the town to produce more valuable sons and daugh-ters for the country. When I head back  to  Yangon,  the  sun  was  close to set for the day.  

By Maung Tha (Archaeology)

(Translated by Handytips)