By Maung Tha (Archaeology)
We arrived at the regions near ancient Pinle city at the invitation of Mongmaw Sayadaw who arranges establishment of Nandapura Cultural Museum to showcase documents related to Pyu culture in Mongmaw Village of ancient Pyu city state Pinle under the permission of the Ministry of Religious Affairs and Culture.
During the period from the 1st to 9th centuries, Pyu people established Pyu city states including ancient Pinle city currently known as Mongmaw in the region which would become the Land of Myanmar. Ancient Pinle city was located five miles southeast of Kume in Myittha Township of Mandalay Region. It was a region where Thihathu, one of three Shan brothers, became king between 1287 AD and 1298 AD in the reign of King Kyaw Swa in late Bagan era.
In Bagan era, Kyaukse plain, which was a greenery of the State, was famous as 11 Ledwin districts where Samon, Samar, Zawgyi, Panlaung and Dokhtawady rivers streamed. Eleven Ledwin districts were based on 11 fortress towns namely
Panan, Tamoke, Myinkhontaing, Ywamone and Thintaung in Kyaukse Township, Pinle, Pyimana and Myittha in Myittha Township, and Makkhaya, Tapyettha and Khanlu in Singaing Township.
During the period from 1782 AD to 1819 AD when King Badon ruled the country, Ledwin District was formed with Myaunghla, Myinkhontaing, Panan, Myinsoe and Makkhaya of Zawgyi District and Sawhla, Pinle, Myittha and Pyimana of Panlaung District. That was why there were two kinds of areas— 11 Ledwin District and nine Ledwin District.
The area of Lewdwin in Kyaukse Township was fenced with the foot of Shan mountain ranges in the east, Samon River in the west, Pyetkhayway Hill in the south and Dokhtawady River also called Myitnge River in the north.
According to the saying which goes: “Nine Hsatthwar Pagodas, nine caves, nine Mokhtaws, and nine dams, constructed by King Anawrahta”, Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar pagodas, among nine Hsatthwar pagodas, can be seen in Nyaungywe Village of Kyaukse Township and Kyetshar Village of Singaing Township till today.
Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar the enveloped pagoda
Local people expressed their belief that Shinpin Hsatthwar Pagoda, located in Nyaungywe Village, five miles from Kyaukse, was built by King Anawrahta. People from Nyaungywe, Nyaungwun, Nyaungbinsauk, Kyaungpangon, Kyetshar, Ngaoh,West Ywanan, Yaytwinpyae, Thinpok, Ngalonkon, Puktaing and Pahtotaung villages believe that their
villages exist under the shade of Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda.
Local people said that the pagoda built by King Anawrahta was nine elbows (equivalent to 13.5 feet) high with the precinct installed with four archways.The pagoda was enveloped by double brick layers and double gravel layers. Local people said that the double layers of the pagoda were constructed by a king in the late Bagan era and King Minye Kyawswa of Inwa. One of the gravel layers of the pagoda was built by Assistant Chief of the Gana Sayadaw U Jina who resided at Nyaungwun Thabyay Monastery, together with villagers in 1263 Myanmar Era. Hermit U Khanti renovated the 75 elbows (equivalent to 112.5 feet) high Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda on 3rd waning of Nayon, 1293 Myanmar Era (4 June 1931), Wednesday, and hoisted a new holly umbrella atop the pagoda. Hence, the pagoda was known as double brick double gravel pagoda.
Hermit U Khamti cast a bronze Buddha image weighing 1,350 viss and donated it to Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda. At that time, there was a six square inches hole on the wall behind the Buddha image. If looked at inside the cave by lighting through the hole, it was said that the original pagoda built by King Anawrahta could be seen.
In renovating Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda in 1998, the works of the pagoda were much different from the original ones. That was why the pagoda was renovated again in 2009. As people and experts in successive eras have been assuming that the meritorious deeds performed by King Anawrahta were enclosed in the tunnel by the Buddha image built by Hermit U Khanti, the six square inches hole of the tunnel was opened under the permission of the venerable members of the Sangha. At that time, a large Buddha image with 10 feet in height covered with masonry works in Inwa era was found in the tunnel together with 25 stone carved Buddha images, one bronze image,168 images made of lac covered
with gold, silver and bronze and five wooden images. The documentary book on chronicle of Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda proved that stone carved Buddha images were made in Pinya, Nyaungyan, Amarapura and Yadanabon eras.
Although pilgrims missed the chance of viewing the terraces at different levels of the brick pagoda called the double
brick pagoda, they can pay homage to the Buddha image rebuilt over by Myanmar kings in successive eras. Currently, everybody without gender discrimination can pay homage to the aforesaid Buddha image in the cave of the throne under the bronze Buddha image built by Hermit U Khanti.
Members of the Sangha, novices and men will have chance to pay obeisance to the stone carved throne under the stone
carved pagoda built by U Jina in the Adeikhtan archway, west of the pagoda, as well as the holy umbrella of the stone carved pagoda in the small hole under the bell at the southeast corner of the existing pagoda.
Tamoke Shinpin enveloped Buddha images
Thanks to efforts of renowned Myanmar handicraft expert Sayagyi Tampawady U Win Maung from Mandalay, Tamoke
Shwegugyi Pagoda has been famous with flocks of pilgrims on a daily basis.
Three triple-enveloped Buddha images in three eras similar to those of the double enveloped pagoda from Shinpin Hsatthwar Pagoda can be seen in Tamoke Village of Kyaukse Township. Tamoke, six miles west of Kyaukse and south of
the Kyaukse-TadaU Road, is located in Nyaungbinsauk Village from Kyaungpangon Village-tract in Kyaukse Township. Ancient Tamoke city was included in the area of 11 Ledwin Districts, in the eastern bank of Panlaung River.The ancient city is on 25 acres of land, fenced with horse roof shaped walls.
King Anawrahta built nine Shwegu Pagodas along the bank of Panlaung River, five of which were located in Kyaukse Township and two each in Myittha and Singaing townships. The pagodas scattered in Panan (Magyitaw), Tamok, Myinkhontaing (Chetma), Panan and Ywamone (Shwe-in) in Kyaukse Township and Myittha (Kyunhla) and Pyimana in Myittha Township as well as Khanku (Wunpatae) and Khanlu (Sawye) in Singaing Township.
Shwegugyi Pagoda where the enveloped Buddha images were kept was well-known as Tamoke Shwegugyi based on the
title of ancient Tamoke city. King Anawrahta constructed Shwegugyi Pagoda on a slope roofed one-storey cave in Tamoke in 11th century of early Bagan era. Likewise, a great ordination hall was built behind the pagoda.
In 12th century of Bagan era, King Narapati Sithu who reigned from 1165 AD to 1211 AD rebuilt a pyramidal spire shaped double cave pagoda over the original one-storey cave pagoda. The exterior of the caved pagoda was decorated with floral arabesques, embosses of animals, birds, humans, celestial beings and Brahmans in addition to Keinnaya. In 684 Myanmar Era of Pinya era, King Uzzana built a Shwezigon replica pagoda of Bagan which enveloped the ancient pagoda, ordination hall and Buddha image.
According to the stone inscriptions found in the ordination hall, King Hsinbyushin Kyaw Swa of Pinya City (reigned 1344
AD-1350 AD) together his queen paid homage to Tamoke Shinpin Shwegugyi Pagoda in 718 Myanmar Era and donated 19 pei (equivalent to 33.25 acres) as the precinct of the pagoda and four slaves assigned duty for serving the pagoda.
Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda renovated in Pinya era for the last time collapsed into a shape of brick pile due to lack of maintenance for many years. The pagoda together with the whole mound of the pagoda on 13.62 acres of land was lost under vines, weeks and bushes. In 1915, U San Htwar from Kyaungpangon Village carried out land preparations atop the area of former pagoda and built a 20 feet high pagoda.
Assigned by the Township Sangha Nayaka Committee and requested by villagers, Ashin Candobhasa whose native was Ngetoe Village residing at renowned Mahagandayon Monastery in Amarapura arrived at Kyaungpangon Village in 1993 to reside. On 22 August the same year, Abbot Ashin Candobhasa led the local villagers to clear the foot of the brick mound. At first, the pot-hole of the cave’s archway emerged, and then they found masonry works of floral works and pieces of mural paintings in the cave. They also found the 10 feet high Buddha image covered with masonry works on 2 November the same year.
Under the permission of the Department of Archaeology, more than 200 volunteers excavated the brick mound of Tamoke
Shwegugyi Pagoda on a daily basis starting from the full moon day of Kason, 1370 Myanmar era, (19 May 2008). They unearthed masonry works of concrete from the foot of the pagoda to the upper pyramidal spice works. During the excavation, the volunteers found mortars to pound the concrete and wells. These objects are being preserved and showcased in original positions.
Urns and Dolomite Buddha Image
Lids of Pyu urns were unearthed in the east, north and northwest of Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda. In this regard, the book
with the title “Eleven Districts in Myittha—A Mile Stone” mentioned that there was a large Pyu village in the place where the lids of Pyu urns were found. Among the mounds of bones, the mound of bones close to the north wing of Naungdawgyi Satumukha Pagoda was the most famous.
The mounds of bones found around Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda were in shapes of squares inside and outside. Urns were buried around the three feet high brick structure but no urn inside the brick structure. The urns in various shapes were buried with covered with earthen plates as lids. The Department of Archaeology and National Museum showcases these urns with numbers in their excavated positions.
In discovering many Buddha images around Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda, an ivory-white dolomite Buddha image made
in 12th century was excavated in a good position from the one-hole cave at the southeast corner of the pagoda in October 2010. The Buddha image was 16 centimetres high, 9.3 centimetres long and 0.5 centimetre thick decorated with 70 statues. The Buddha image was carved on a dolomite stone in colours of ivory-white, white, pink and gray with creating detailed works of eight Buddha’s significantly historical episodes.
Dolomite Buddha images which were carved as stone sculptural works of masterpieces are being showcased at the National Museum (Yangon) and Bagan Archaeological Museum. The dolomite Buddha image found near Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda is displayed at Tamoke Shwegu Museum together with sacred relics, votive tablets, and the west have been on the enveloped thrones. The pieces of hair from all enveloped Buddha images were made of earthbaked spiral in shapes.The ordination hall where three enveloped Buddha images are being kept at Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda was rebuilt for three times. The first work of ordination hall was built with the post made of biotite, the second one with the octagonal posts made of shale, and the third one with marble posts in order to designate the area of ordination hall.
Significantly, the Buddha images and their floors were also triple enveloped and triple layers. The pagoda built over the original pagoda was 60 elbows (equivalent to 90 feet) in the basic circumference and 50 elbows (75 feet) in height. Tamoke Shwegugyi double enveloped cave pagoda was 59 feet long, about 36 feet wide and glaze rings, spiral shaped hair
and earth-baked hair excavated from the Tamoke Cave and the place of ancient ordination hall.
The Buddha images from Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda were the works of triple enveloped in three eras. The Buddha image in the caved pagoda west of Meemalaung Monastery in Bagan and the Buddha image in the caved pagoda west of Gupyauknge Pagoda in Myinkapa were also the enveloped Buddha images but these were formed with double layers. Among the triple enveloped Buddha images at Shwegugyi Pagoda, the Buddha image at the bottom from the triple enveloped Buddha facing the east is the most ancient. Experts assumed that the above-mentioned most ancient Buddha image may be the work of Gutta in 11th century in the reign of King Anawrahta, the middle Buddha image, the work of Pala era in the reigns of King Sawlu and King Kyansittha, and the top Buddha image, the work in 13th century. Both the
Buddha images facing the east and the west have been on the enveloped thrones. The pieces of hair from all enveloped Buddha images were made of earthbaked spiral in shapes.
The ordination hall where three enveloped Buddha images are being kept at Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda was rebuilt for three times. The first work of ordination hall was built with the post made of biotite, the second one with the octagonal posts made of shale, and the third one with marble posts in order to designate the area of ordination hall. Significantly, the Buddha images and their floors were also triple enveloped and triple layers.
The pagoda built over the original pagoda was 60 elbows (equivalent to 90 feet) in the basic circumference and 50 elbows (75 feet) in height. Tamoke Shwegugyi double enveloped cave pagoda was 59 feet long, about 36 feet wide and more than 45 feet high.
The precinct which was measured 150 feet from the Tamoke Shinpin Shwegugyi Pagoda to the east, 190 feet to the north and 75 feet to the south and 140 feet from the southwest corner of the pagoda to the south was designated as the Ancient Monumental Zone on 11 December 2015.
The significantly enveloped pagodas in Kyaukse Township which was famous as the 11 Ledwin Districts are thronged with pilgrims daily. Thanks to preservation on architectural works in successive eras, historic Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda and Tamoke Shwegugyi Pagoda are well-known for highly valued ancient and enveloped Buddha images in religious and cultural affairs.
Translated by Than Tun Aung Reference:
Tamoke Shinpin Shwegugyi Pagoda Shinpin Shwe Hsatthwar Pagoda (Moe, Kyaukse)
Eleven Districts in Myittha—A Mile Stone (Linn Htaik Tin Hlaing, Kyaukse)
